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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 9/19/2008 8:25:53 PM
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| My wife and I are going to be moving to a house out in the country with a septic tank. I presume there must be some sort of biological activity in the septic to break down waste. Does anyone know how it will affect the septic system if I dump the salt water from my water changes down the drain and into this tank? Thanks, Jason
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| Hey Jason, I have talked with many different people on this subject (I also am on my first septic system). The people I have spoke with say the antibacterial soap you use is more damaging than the saltwater we dump down. BUT when I had my 220 gallon tank going and I needed to dump larger quantities of saltwater I would not put them in my septic just in case. I think it will really depend on the size of the septic tank and your actual water usage vs. the amount of saltwater getting dumped. Your leach field can be damaged by crystals foaming (from certain detergents and other factors not tank related), so you just may want to watch what you are using for laundry soap and dishwashing detergents. Probably your best bet is to talk with the someone in the septic tank field and as what they recommend and just make sure you keep up with the normal maintenance of the septic tank (pumping it out I think every other year, speaking of which I think we may be due ). HTH,
________________________________________________ Keith "Simply put, you believe that things or people make you unhappy, but this is not accurate. You make yourself unhappy." Wayne Dyer
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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 6/22/2008 12:58:21 PM
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Jason, welcome to the country.
Every day people move from the city and face up to living with a septic tank.
Used as intended, they are cheap to own and will go for years (30 is not unusual) before they need to be emptied.
Your question regarding salt. Salt is an antiseptic, as such in inhibits the work of the anerobic de-composition. If this process stalls then your tank will fill up in no time at all and you will pay to have it emptied.
Salt also effects the ability of the drain field to absorb and pass water, once the soil surrounding the drain field sets hard and becomes impervious - then yet another drain field has to be dug up and replaced at great expense.
If you follow three simple rules, then your septic tank will give you years of un-noticed service.
One. Only put into the septic tank things you have eaten or drank.
Two. Use the septic tank for waste water from the washing machine.
Three. Use the septic tank for washing up water - making sure that all utensils have grease, oil, fat, lard and salt wiped off before washing.
Make sure your lady, family and visitors understand whats required.
Take a look at history to see what other people have done in the past.
I've put some notes together that you may find interesting, these may help you to avoid future problems.
Like, is my tank full? A tank is always full! Of water, with a crust on top and usually a very small amount of solids unseen at the bottom.
The main thing to note is that a septic tank used as intended, will probably never need to be emptied. Nor require any maintenance.
The septic tank was invented by a Frenchman John Louis Mauras who in the 1860's built the first septic tank/ brick pond.
On opening it after 12 years he was surprised to find it almost empty. John patented his invention on the 2/9/1881.
The first real septic tank was designed by Donald Cameron and built in Exeter, England in 1895 it was 64 feet long 18 feet wide and between 7 and 10 feet deep. It had a surface area of 3600 square feet and served 30 houses and a large reformatory. It could process 90,000 gallons a day.
After 13 months it was opened and found to be almost clean, apart from some gravel washed in by the rain.
Septic tanks work by anaerobic process of de -composition turning our toilet into mainly methane, hydrogen sulphides, ammonia and carbon dioxide in an oxygen free process.
Our toilet is 70% water so the solids are very little and after process they more or less disappear.(see below)
The system works by separation, the oils and buoyant things like grease float to the top, under this is a layer of water based liquids with a suspension of tiny solids that gradually fall to the bottom, to de-compose. At the bottom the compact sludge.
The key thing is the quantity of oil and grease/lard that you put down the kitchen sink.
Over time the build up of oil and grease/lard in the top of the tank will result in neat oil flowing into the drain field and spoiling it.
All oils and grease/lard should be collected and placed in the dustbin/waste.
Things like frying pans and other oily/greasy kitchen things should be wiped dry with paper towels prior to washing and the towels dropped in the waste bin.
The same treatment for plates etc; sprinkled with salt. (Sodium chloride)
The use of dishwashers and water softeners should be avoided in hard water areas as these use salt (Sodium chloride) as water softeners.
Salt is an antiseptic and over time it builds up in the drain field and stops it working. It blocks the soil pores and slows or even stops the flow of water from the drain field.
(You can buy a chemical treatment, that restores the field to use for a time. Usually needs treating once a year.)
RV Toilet Chemicals.
If you are still using Thetford Aqua-Kem Blue This is a strong poison and antiseptic! Do not empty your toilet tank into your septic tank on arriving home, Aqua-Kem contains formaldehide which is an antiseptic, more powerful than Sodium. It will kill the process in your septic tank, that may not restart and will required empting.
Thetford Aqua-Kem-Green is OK.
Restaurants, hotels and similar who do a lot of cooking find it helpful to fit a grease/oil trap between the sink and tank.
If you look on the net you will find that there are many people who have not emptied their septic tanks in 30 years and yes like mine fitted in 1985 they a still OK and going strong and trouble free, free flowing clear liquid and a nice crust on the top.
Some people recommend empty every year, this is trotted out regardless of the size of tank and drain field or the number of people using it. Or indeed if it is used or not!
Experience suggests that the longer the time the suspended solids have to settle and the larger the volume of free water/liquid the better the tank works. The best transit time seems to be between 36 and 48 hours and is best accomplished by a journey of around 8 feet.(Across the tank.)
One could also say that the timing of the days events and the order of process will have an effect. The smaller the transit space the quicker the fluids and suspended solids will pass through it into the drain field.
One should aim to let the drain field dry out over night. (8 hours of none use if possible.)
When to empty, in practice waiting until you have a minimum of 12 inches /30cms of clear water/liquid between the top of the sludge and the bottom of the outlet pipe Tee seems to work.
However, keep in mind the build up of oil/grease/lard if your housekeeping is not up to standard.
If your tank is designed to serve twelve people and it is only used by two people, then emptying it every year or two is a nonsense.
There is a built in space for floating substances oil and grease, once this is exceeded oil will flow into your drain field.
It is a good idea to make a pole about 10 feet long with a plastic bottle on the end that can be passed down inside the tank to ascertain the remaining space on top of the sludge. Do this through the inlet pipe.
The sludge is quite firm and a plastic bottle small enough to go down a 4 inch pipe will do the trick.
You will feel the top of the sludge without problem.
The secret of longevity is : Control the things you put into the tank. Toilet paper is not a problem.
Never put alcohol products down the sink, alcohol is an antiseptic and will kill the process.
Only put into the tank things you would be willing to eat or drink. (except alcohol.)
Use other methods to dispose of other things.
Keep in mind that the process requires and generates its own heat, avoid letting cold rainwater get into the tank, expect the process to slow in the cold of winter and to flourish in the warmth of summer.
If you live in a cold part of the country consider covering the inspection covers with 5 inches of polystyrene to keep the cold out,
make sure the pipe to the tank, the tank and drain field are below the frost line.
It is good practice to limit the amount and volume of cold water entering the tank, as large volumes of water will wash the suspended solids through the system into the drain field and stop it from working.
Make sure the lids fit properly and that the area round them is designed to let water get away without forming a pond.
A trench or French drain installed above the septic tank and drain field, diverting the surface water away to one side is useful.
The tank will come to a halt when it is not used for a time and then start up again when brought back into use.
Thats it, I hope you enjoy your time in the country.
Perry
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