1.) "Three products under the Central Aquatics umbrella - Coralife Salt Mix, Oceanic Natural Sea Salt Mix, and Kent Sea Salt - offer hobbyists different options.  "It's a good, better, best scenario," said Andrews.  (*Steven's note: the Andrews quoted is Paul Andrews, associate brand director of Central Aquatics*) .....  For example, the Coralife brand doesn't have the same amounts of trace elements and buffers as the Oceanic brand, which in turn has less than the Kent brand."

I didn't know that.  I wasn't sure how the three brands related to one another.  Interesting to note.

2.) Regarding RO water, "This has represented a challenge for the home hobbyist because, according to Howard (*Steven's note: Ron Howard, CEO of Red Sea), all salts manufactured to date except for Red Sea's new Coral Pro have been configured to work with tap water.  "Tap water typically contains at least 100 parts per million of dissolved calcium - essential for coral growth and health - and magnesium and other essential elements. ..... Consumers who use RO water and properly test their aquarium notice after mixing new saltwater they immediately have to supplement calcium, magnesium and other elements, said Howard."

This is something I have known for quite some time and I and others have spoken about it before, but it doesn't seem to be getting to the masses.  I routinely see posts complaining about brand X salt when someone tests it and finds it low when mixed with RO/DI water.  I don't know if those hobbyists simply don't know this fact, don't believe it, or simply like to complain.

3.) In several portions of this article the idea of having to add salt to water and not vice versa is reinforced.  Again, this is something I knew, but a nice point to bring back up to remind others.  Adding water to the salt mix can cause precipitation problems.

Chuck

----------------------------------------------------------------- 

As a major salt manufacturer, you have two choices.  One, make a salt mix that mixes to 400 ppm and 3.5 meq/l with RO/DI (for the relatively small handful of hardcore hobbyists out there) which causes precipitation events when mixed with most tapwater or two, make a mix that comes out low in RO/DI water but good when used with most tapwaters.

I also new some brands of salt water were better than others but had no idea on what was up and what was down; I just use Seachem Reef Salt and am happy with it. 

I did know about adding salt to water and not water to salt.  I reserve thoughts in my mind when I see posts on RC regarding Salt X will not completely dissolve.  I have used four different brands and have never had a problem.  I will say Instant Ocean took the most time to completely dissolve in my memories.  Most certainly, adding salt first then water would be case in my mind, secondly by dumping and not using a power head to aid in mixing.  But I do laught because the whole concept reminds me of the Far Side cartoon of the puzzled kid sitting at the breakfast table with a bowl full of milk and reading the directions on the cereal box that says add cereal first, then milk.

Chris

I am asking because in my local club I sometimes feel like I am the only one that does. From what I have read in Seachem's articles about WHY they do what they do and how they formulate things makes sense to me. I got the idea that their formulation may reduce the need for Calcium Reactors and Kalwasser although they give that as an option that a hobbyist may do also.

I just would like a fellow hobbyist opinion and reasons for using this besides my own.

Do you chose it for the price?

Do you chose it for the quality?

Or do you chose it for another reason?

Thank you for your help with this.

Jimbo205
Albany, New York

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I3/Salt/salt.htm