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 Posted 1/31/2007 9:36:25 PM |
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Hello Anthony, Amanda here. I know you said that BTAs could be harvested every two weeks under good conditions. From what I understand other anemones have a slower recovery/growth after propagation. I was wondering if you could post your experiences with Macrodactyla doreensis and Heteractis malu, in particular the success rate per cut specimen, healing time, harvest time etc.
Thanks.Amanda
Amanda-
20+ years tropical fish experience, 6 years saltwater, 3 years reef
Current tanks: 47 gal extra tall reef, 30 gal anemone tank, prop system under construction
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| Posted 2/1/2007 6:33:18 AM |
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| there are not as many folks that work with Macrodactylus doreensis as there are Malu/Sebae or BTA keepers. All of the above can be split monthly at least (my experience) or sooner depending on feeding and water quality. Avoid harassing fishes like clowns or the like too that perch in/on the anemones (no target eeding needed this way)... but do have a hearty fish load in the system for a souce of organics (nurients via fish food/feeding/waste).
. Anthony Calfo
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| Posted 2/1/2007 7:51:53 AM |
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| Anthony I am moving my anemones to their individual 100 stock tanks in about 2 or 3 weeks and I have a few question about fish load in Propagation. I remember reading in other threads that returning cut anemones to a display will most likely kill all coral and fish. I understand that we are not talking about display tanks here, but it seems that it would be the same for both. After containment in a separate container for an hour post cutting, will it be OK to return the anemones to the prop tank that also houses fish (school of chromis or damsel)? Are there any specific precautions that should be carried out with cutting anemones and returning them to a prop tank with fish, i.e. longer soak time, etc.? Using this method I assume you feed the fish moderate to heavy with good water flow and the anemones will catch uneaten food and fish waste? Sorry if these questions have been addressed elsewhere in your Fav's links. I have research them extensively and don't remember seeing anything related to this subject. Thanks
Todd
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| Posted 2/1/2007 8:17:36 AM |
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good point Todd... I use (and often presume others do too) rather srict farming techniques. In this case, propagating outside of the holding vessles and employing baths to purge mucus, toxins, etc. An hour in baths (water changes) after cutting is adequate for all popular (presently) hobby species we work with (BTA, malue, crispa... be always be careful of carpets... fishless if best and target feed insead)
.Anthony Calfo
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| Posted 2/1/2007 11:52:54 AM |
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| Okay Anthony I learned something new again. I was under the assumption that all my prop tanks would be fishless. On the other hand I did wonder how they would get fed if they were always being cut in half. How do I determine the correct bioload of fish, just by testing for nitrates? Amanda
Amanda-
20+ years tropical fish experience, 6 years saltwater, 3 years reef
Current tanks: 47 gal extra tall reef, 30 gal anemone tank, prop system under construction
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| Posted 2/1/2007 11:56:02 AM |
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| I'm not sure if I worded that correctly. It should read: How do I determine the correct bioload of fish? Do I do it by just by testing for nitrates? Amanda
Amanda-
20+ years tropical fish experience, 6 years saltwater, 3 years reef
Current tanks: 47 gal extra tall reef, 30 gal anemone tank, prop system under construction
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| Posted 3/18/2007 9:25:24 PM |
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I would also be interested in the answer to this question.
I am breeding clownfish and have had some success with that, and now find that I can easily saturate my local market with just one or two spawns for 6 months!
I have some empty tubs on my system, and was thinking that if I could also sell some captive raised anemones.... Do I need a seperate system for the anemones, or will they, and the juvenile fish be compatible in separate tanks on the same "system"? I have all tanks draining to a central sump with 100 micron filter, changed daily, carbon, bioball trickle, then pumped from the sump through a UV and to a manifold where the water is delivered to each tank. About 120 gallons altogether.
If they really are compatible, and could help to process the uneaten food and fish waste, then perhaps I should remove the 100micron filter, and grow the anemones in my sump!
Also, how important is it to keep nitrates down? My fish systems run ammonia and nitrite free, and my nitrates are low as fish systems go, 5-20 ppm, but it's always there....
As always, thanks for any info.
Kathy
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| Posted 3/21/2007 11:24:32 AM |
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| by fish load (and feeding fishes) and/or simply by dosing sodium nitrate... maintain at least 5 ppm of nitrate (though avoid going much over 10 ppm) for a lingering source of nitrogen. Feeding fine zooplankton substitues too is a huge help for growing anemones (cyclop-eeze, coral-frenzy, etc)
. Anthony Calfo
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