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Solaris LED Lighting

Posted By echidnanebulosa 6/29/2006 5:09:51 PM
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Anthony Calfo
 Posted 8/21/2006 11:24:53 AM
 

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there is also a nifty article on LEDs in a certain new reef magazine being released next month BigGrin

.

Anthony Calfo
Steven Pro
 Posted 8/21/2006 1:36:17 PM
 

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I have not had time to really sit down and read anyhting as of late because of the greenhouse, but I can say I am not particualrly impressed with the claims of outperforming a 250 watt 20,000 K lamp.  For perspective, a 175 watt SE Ushio has a PAR of 63 compared to the 53 of the XM 20,000 K (numbers courtesy of Sanjay Joshi, both run on IceCap ballasts).  That is 18.9% more light with 30% less electricity.




Steven Pro, yeah that is my real name.
Steven Pro
 Posted 8/21/2006 1:37:48 PM
 

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A Radium 20,000 K is better with 66 PAR versus the Ushio's 63, but that is still at 250 watts compared to 175.




Steven Pro, yeah that is my real name.
TippyToeX
 Posted 8/21/2006 7:35:19 PM
 

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Steven Pro (8/21/2006)
I have not had time to really sit down and read anyhting as of late because of the greenhouse

Sweet! BigGrin

but I can say I am not particualrly impressed with the claims of outperforming a 250 watt 20,000 K lamp.  For perspective, a 175 watt SE Ushio has a PAR of 63 compared to the 53 of the XM 20,000 K (numbers courtesy of Sanjay Joshi, both run on IceCap ballasts).  That is 18.9% more light with 30% less electricity.

I agree 100%. I thought it was bunk of a claim. I have a friend I just came from visiting who brought this setup. I was blown away at how bright they are! I need to get my PAR meter under there to see what it reads but was hopeful for your opinion.

Looking forward to more info when you have the time.

____________________________________

-Amy-

KDodds
 Posted 8/28/2006 7:57:09 PM
 

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Looking forward to your review Steven.  Here's what struck me in Dana's review:

There was cautious mention of coral placement, i.e. the spread of the fixture is lacking compared to MH, PC, T5, or VHO fixtures.  That led me to further ask myself, where's the mention of PAR/PUR reduction at depth?  Are we to assumed that there is also a limitation to depth as well as linear placement of corals?  For the price, which reminds me a lot of those hybrid cars, the cost would hardly be defrayed by replacing bulbs every year in my case since I'd need at least 6 48" units for my 450.  Blink

The sum of my knowledge is great, the sum of my ignorance greater still

Kieron Dodds, Administrator - Inside Aquatics

biggerpapa
 Posted 5/31/2007 6:00:35 PM
 

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Hello,

Any new comments on this lighting system? 

Thanks,

Mike

Riverside

fredfish
 Posted 6/2/2007 5:34:20 PM
 

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I'm a real lighting technogeek and have been researching the topic of more efficient lighting for a long long time.

What I have found is that the claims around LED lights are misleading at best.

The idea that LEDs are much more efficient than other forms of lighting came from red, green and amber LEDs which, I believe, are direct immitters.

White light is not so simple to create and white LED emmitters use phosphors to generate white light.  That is: they use phosphors to convert light generated by an emmitter to white light.

The efficiency just isn't there.

Heres a simple comparison.  Go to the Lumileds site and take a look at the initial lumens per watt generated by their best white LED.  It is 40 lumens/watt.

Now go to the manufacturer of any MH bulb and look at the initial lumens per watt for any MH bulb.  You will be looking at somewhere in the 90 to 100 lumens/watt range.  Some of the high K specialty bulbs probably have a lower rating

Now, this dosn't speak to the quality of light generated by each source or the amound of light you can direct down towards your tank (the LUMILEDS leds are 18 degree emmitters), but thats one heck of a difference for LEDs to make up to live up to their claims.

Another way to look at LED efficiency is by their common use.  If white LEDs were so much more efficient thant their competitors, they would be the primary backlight in displays from computer monitors to large screen flat pannel TVs.  Yet this is the first year we are actually seeing LEDs as backlights in fp TVs and the reason for using them is the quality of light they generate, not their efficiency.

Because the current LED technology uses phosphors, I do not think they will ever reach efficiencies better than the current Fluorescent technology. 

Now, if you want to look at a light source that may offer much higher efficiencies, take a look at carbon nanotube lighting.  Unfortunately, they are just now producing the first prototypes, so it may be a year or ten before we see anything practical for aquarium applications.  It really is a cool technology though!!

Fred

Eric Borneman
 Posted 6/4/2007 7:15:35 AM
 

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I've been running two panels of 12 x 16 LED's (192 bulbs per panel of 0.5 watt LEDs) over a ten gallon reef previously lit by 2x65watt PCs for three months. That's more wattage than the PCs. The tank is noticeably less bright, and my fluorescent green Psammacora barely looks green anymore. Oddly, the LEDs produce slight glitter lines that the PC's did not. Also odd is that the fluorescent green Psammacora is still just as fluorescent green, but only when viewed from the top of the tank. I did do PAR measurements and I got 70-90 right at the water surface and 40 at the bottom of the tank. Not a lot of light, but surprising penetration and more PAR than I expected given that the tank looks so much less bright. It's almost equivalent to the PC's (110 at the surface and 65 at the bottom). Both of these (PC and LED) produce far les light than a 150watt 10K MH with a good reflector (but less heat, too) by wattage comparison.

The tank runs much cooler and I have no need for a fan. Glass algae (and unfortunately, corallines inlcuded), are almost not even growing making glass scraping an almost non-existent chore. Overall, based on my use of them to date, I don't think they are the ideal reef light for many reasons but certainly an option. They seem to act like little tiny metal halides, bright and punching deeply, not spreading their light much except by the distribution of so many on the grid, have the replacement issue, and the price issue. I would also like to see what something like 5 or 6 watt LED's can do, but we are right back up to the total wattage of metal halides then and for the price one could have a great MH/reflector set up.



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Eric Borneman

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forestal
 Posted 6/8/2007 6:17:03 PM
 

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Fred and Eric, good info thanks

I am not very knowledgeable about lighting, but at the IMAC, they had 2 tanks i think 18" deep, one with a 400w MH and the other with the 24 " solaris, and the probe for par meter about 6-8" from bottom... the solaris was slightly more par ~140, the MH ~135...

so may penetrate, and using the mixture of color it does it may compensate somewhat as it looked almost as bright to my eye, but ? may not be providing the true spectrum of what is needed?

I was also baffled, as they say the led's will last long term, but any moonlight i have had burns out after 1-5 months, are they different types perhaps?  sorry if dumb ?'s



Peace...

Dan

fredfish
 Posted 6/8/2007 7:54:46 PM
 

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the solaris was slightly more par ~140, the MH ~135...
Yes, but was it yet another 20K bulb?  Big deal.

There is a big difference in the quality and life of different LEDs.  There are lots of cheapo LEDs out of china that fail quickly for a variety of reasons.  Last time I checked, the LUMILEDS used in the fixture you saw were verified out to 26,000 hours, pretty decent life, but not the 50K to 100K hours marketing blurbs claim.  I think that part of it is that these bulbs are still so new that they havn't been able to test out past the number I gave.  50k hours is about 5 years of continuous use.

The high brightness LEDs are still relatively new tecknology, so they may well get to the point where the lumen output improves and we see 50k hours of life.

I suspect that MH will remain king of the high par reef lighting heap for some time to come.

Fred


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