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I have always quarantined everything wet for at least 8 weeks. Some people call me paranoid or obsessive......but I have had yet another experience that has reassured me that 8 weeks minimum is the way to go. Each quarantine system has their own filtration, net, siphon hose, etc. Glove changes between tanks is mandatory. No cross contamination from splash possible. After each use, all QT, HOB filters, decorations, etc are bleached, rinsed well and air dried for weeks. Filtration for QT are by air driven sponge filters that are cycled and maintained with ammonia. QT set up: Each quarantine system has their own filtration, net, siphon hose, etc. Gloves changes between tanks is mandatory. No cross contamination from splash possible. After each use, all QT, HOB filters, decorations, etc are bleached, rinsed well and air dried for weeks. Filtration for QT are by air driven sponge filters that are cycled and maintained with ammonia.. Mechanical filtration by HOB filter. Tank parameters monitored daily. 25% water changes every 2 -3 days. Temperature maintained at 74 - 75. History: Acquired a 2 inch cyclichthys orbicularis (orbiculate burrfish) and a 3 inch arothron diadematus puffer (panda or masked puffer) from same place (same system & same tank) on May 1. Both placed in QT with hyposalinity prophylactically. No spots noted but these fish are prone to carry and suffer from ich. Both were eating within 24 hours of acclimating. Both were receiving beta glucan, selcon and vitamins and taking eagerily. Both received praziquantel on May 15. (all of my fish receive deworming medication) On May 29 (28 days of being quarantined), both puffers were noted to be breathing faster but eating and swimming well. Water parameters checked - no changes. 75% water change, carbon added. No spots, lesions, discolorations, skin mottling, etc. On May 30, both puffers were flashing and gill pumping. Still in hyposalinity. Water parameters unchanged. Still no visible signs. Since they were in hyposalinity, formalin dip/bath performed and placed in clean new tank. Nothing seen in bath water. On May 31, both puffers continue to gill pump and now becoming lethargic. Now visible with underwater flashlight, slight dusting coat of fins noted on orbiculate burrfish and VERY slightly, only at certain angles on the panda puffer. Placed in new tank with copper to treat for amyloodinium ocellatum aka marine velvet. June 1, both puffers are breathing easier. Still lethargic. Dusting is more apparent today. June 2, both puffers are breathing normal. Looking at food, but not eating. June 3, both puffers are up swimming. Panda ate. Orbiculate burr looking but did not eat. These puffers are NOT hardy and do not do well with disease or stress. Lesson learned: If I had not quarantined, this could have infected my display tank. Marine velvet has a longer life cycle than cryptocaryon irritans (ich). The tomont (cysts) hatch in 3-5 days at 72-77 & become free swimming infective dinospores. It has been reported that the dinospores can be infective for up to 15 days. Quarantining for at least 6 weeks is a must. Marine Velvet can survive hyposalinity. Copper is a proven treatment for velvet.
Kelly
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| Wow, glad to see that you dodged that bullet. To be honest, to this day, I am still constantly amazed that it seems most everyone entering into the hobby will get fully set up, fish added, and then when the inevetable outbreak occurs, it is usualy only then that they hear the word quarantine. I just wish this aspect of fish care was better emphasized by those who sell the fish. I realize that discussing the need to quarantine is not a great sales pitch, but the reasoning and facts behind the need would be a great sales pitch in selling the needed equipment for a QT. Think of all the possible sales that stores are missing out on. I also feel that it is a shop's responsibility to take the lead in such issues and do their part in helping to save the lives of the creatures they make a living from. It can only add to a store's reputation as being worthy of repeat business as well. This goes for online stores as well...hint hint...lol Would love to see quarantine setups being sold as a package item, all the needed equipment including the tank, along with a "how to" handbook. Okay, am ranting now, time to shut up...lol Chuck
___________________________________________________________ "My life is free now, my life is dear" - Black Sabbath
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| Chuck, I will make sure the "powers to be" read this thread With any luck, things can change. Thanks as always for sharing/enlightening!
Kelly
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| Thanks Kelly, I do realize that a quarantine procedure may be a bit of a sticky subject to sell to customers since most peaple would naturaly want to ask "If I have to quarantine what you sell me, then why are you selling me sick fish?", this is where I feel, a simplified explanation of what pathogens wild caught specimens can come in with would help, and that it would be all but impossible to expect a supplier to quarantine and treat for every possibility there is. If so, the fish would never get out of the store. I guess what I am trying to say is that if worded properly, you could easily sell me a quarantine "kit" with my first fish purchase as well. Maybe in due time, a quarantine kit would be an automatic add on to any new saltwater setup, much like the lights, pumps and so on, already are. Would be a nice thing to see happen. Some day...lol Chuck
___________________________________________________________ "My life is free now, my life is dear" - Black Sabbath
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Kell, did you get any pictures of these puffers?
Steven Pro, yeah that is my real name.
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| I've felt the same Chuck. The problem I see in So. CA LFSs is that new people and young people are steering away from the hobby. The primary reasons are cost and attention. So the LFS sells the minimum system and implies it isn't that hard. I can assure you: the LFSs I've approached are horrified of the thought they should advise their potential new customer to put down another $50 and spend even more time and attention to a quarantine process. They still rather 'surprise' them later (after they're too far into the hobby).
Lee
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leebca (6/4/2006)
I've felt the same Chuck. The problem I see in So. CA LFSs is that new people and young people are steering away from the hobby. The primary reasons are cost and attention.So the LFS sells the minimum system and implies it isn't that hard. I can assure you: the LFSs I've approached are horrified of the thought they should advise their potential new customer to put down another $50 and spend even more time and attention to a quarantine process. They still rather 'surprise' them later (after they're too far into the hobby). That is just plain evil...lol, but sadly, not surprising. Chuck
___________________________________________________________ "My life is free now, my life is dear" - Black Sabbath
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Group: Moderators
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| Steve, Due to the recent surgery on my arm, use has been limited so unfortunately no pics  Typing with one hand has been tough/time consuming.
Kelly
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| Could you elaborate on the copper treatment? Did you use cupramine? What ppm did you keep dosage at? Should system run cupramine, is it ok to run UV sterilizer and skimmer ? (I think Seachem discourages at least UV sterilizer, but numerous LFS told me they run both w/o any problems). Congrats on detecting problem early and avoiding catastrophe. I've been nailed too many time w/ marine velvet in the past and usually it is too late once fish exhibit symptoms - bottom line, i know it sounds cruel and may even be detrimental to fish over long run by curtailing their life span, but i'd rather always keep copper in my systems than lose 000$s in a single wipeout from velvet (likelikhood not to be discounted).
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