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Posted 1/20/2006 4:22:11 AM


 

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This is an interesting thread posted on another forum (Beginner's).  I have cut/pasted and placed here as it is worth sharing so all can learn.  Kelly

Posted Monday, January 16, 2006 2:49 PM
 

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Hi.  This is our cowfish, Apollo, who has lived here for 2.5 years.  He and his F.O. tankmates (3 tangs, 1 tomato clown, 1 triggerfish in a 240 gal tank with live rock) have been through a dreadful couple of months after I foolishly cut short the quarantine period on a new fish and added it to the main tank.  We have had Ich, velvet, and severe secondary infections which were treated with antibiotics which knocked out the bacterial filter for a while.  The Ich has continued at a lesser intensity, despite having a 1.008 hyposaline environment for over 4 weeks.  All the fish are a lot better now, but Apollo's eyes continue to have white growths which have been there for several weeks, ever since the initial Ich infestation when the problem was so severe that he could not see to eat.  It would seem that this problem is not Ich as the spots are of long duration.  His eyes are cloudy immediately around the white spots, but clear otherwise.  Can anyone tell me what this might be?  (The central white spot is not a reflection.)

Post #20984
Posted Monday, January 16, 2006 2:51 PM
 

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I'm sorry.  I seem to have put the above post in the wrong place.
Post #20985
Posted Monday, January 16, 2006 3:34 PM


 

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Finnan,

Thanks for posting the pic. It really helps with diagnosis and treatment.

It appears your long horned cow fish still has ich. This also means the tank that he currently is being housed has ich as well.

Please tell us more about your tank set up and post water parameters.

What are you using to measure your salinity ?

What treatments have you used and what time frame/length of treatment ? Did you treat in the display tank? Is there substrate and/or live rock?




Kelly
Post #21000
Posted Monday, January 16, 2006 7:31 PM
 

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Thanks for finding my post, Kelly!  The fish tank was here when we bought the house 3 yrs ago, so I am a relative newby. 

Yes, the fish have remained in the display tank throughout, purely for logistical reasons.  The 6'W X 3'H tank is in a wall between two rooms, and the top of the tank is 6' off the floor with light bars and ceiling closely above.  There is live rock in the tank, a trigger fish which would be difficult to catch, and the cowfish would need his own tank if moved out.  (I learned this to my cost. My first fish shopping purchases consisted of the cowfish and 4 other fish which were found dead in the QT next morning.  Apparently the cowfish had released his toxin.  The big tank would seem to have enough water to dilute the toxin if he becomes frightened.  He's a great personality fish, though!) 

There is a protein skimmer, a bioball tower, and I have added a UV sterilizer and a cleaner wrasse this week.

Nov 23/05  Ich appeared in tank after introduction of a new fish (my second fish shopping trip...sigh)  All fish had ich (the trigger had only a slight infestation) and the tomato clown had ?velvet.  New fish (juvenile emperor angel) died. 

Dec 14-19  Secondary infections apparent.  Apollo lying on tank bottom, green-brown in colour, fins eroded, "skin tags" hanging off, eyes coated with ich, not eating.  Tangs have some red streaking.    Maracyn commenced Dec 14, Maracyn 2 commenced Dec 15  (this was freshwater Maracyn, which was all that was available locally--the LFS were told that it could be used for S/W as well.  I later discovered that this is incorrect and the Mardel tech told me Maracyn F/W had never been tested in S/W.)  The infections cleared up (still some red on the tangs, however) and the fish started to improve.  Large white spots still visible on Apollo's eyes.  Carbon filtration added.  Ammonia starting to show on testing.

Dec 20  Hyposalinity 1.008 established.  Tested with refractometer.

Dec 20-31  Nitrogen cycle re-established with some fish stress but no losses, thank goodness.

Present:  all fish improving, tangs and cowfish have small amount of ich, but behaving normally and eating well.  The large white spots are still on the cowfish's eyes from the initial ich infestation.  I intend to start increasing the salinity again this week, as the hyposalinity has served the purpose of making the fish more comfortable while they were ill, but has not controlled the ich infestation.

I look forward to hearing your thoughts.

Anne

Post #21070
Posted Monday, January 16, 2006 9:45 PM


 

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Anne,

Please visit the disease, health & wellness forum & read the thread "ich".

First suggestion - do not raise your salinity.  It needs to remain at 1.009 for a minimum of 4 weeks preferably 8 weeks in your case.  There is still ich in your tank and as soon as you raise it back, your fish, especially the cowfish will become very infested. Is there substrate in your tank?

Do you check salinity and pH daily.  Fluctuations in both are expected and must be avoided at all costs.  One must keep up with daily top offs and buffer as needed to stabilize the pH.  Since the live rock's microfauna has died off due to the hyposalinity and the biological filtration has been affected by the antibiotics, the water parameters will be marginal at this time. I would also suggest monitoring/checking water parameters daily and doing water changes to stabilize.  Decreasing stress is a big factor in disease management.

I would remove the cleaner wrasse immediately.  They are not compatible with cow fish.  They will cause damage to his shell/skin and will cause him undue stress.

A UV sterilizer can help decrease the number of parasites but will not irradicate the parasite.  Make sure you are prefiltering the water going through the sterilizer to get the best benefit of its use.

Another suggestion would be to add beta glucan, garlic and vitamins to the diet of the fish.  There is a thread on the disease, health & wellness forum as well.  These additives will help boost the fish's immune system so it can fight the parasite and any other opportunistic pathogen in the tank.

Best of luck,

Kelly


Kelly





Kelly
Post #22001
Posted 1/20/2006 4:28:38 AM


 

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Here is the continuation of this thread that I cut/pasted.

Kelly

Posted Yesterday @ 3:42 PM


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Thanks, Kelly, for your help. It took us a couple of days, but we did get the wrasse out of the tank. The cowfish certainly did not like him, and the wrasse was quite persistant in chasing him. I now have the wrasse in the quarantine tank for the coming month, so have 2 tanks to test salinity,pH, etc.daily. The bacterial filter in the main tank has been back to normal for3 weeks or so. I try to keep both tanks at 1.008, whichprovides a small margin of error re daily evaporation. We have been adding X-treme Garlic, and Kent Zoe to all the food, and I have mail-ordered some Beta Glucan 7.5 mg from the US. Do you happen to know if the wrasse needs to be with another fish (diet-wise), or will f/w mysis shrimp and spirulina flake suffice?

Anne
Post #21902
Posted Yesterday @ 6:12 PM




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Anne,

I would strongly suggest never adding the cleaner wrasse back to the tank with the cowfish. I would also suggest that you take the wrasse back to the LFS as they do not do well long term in captivity.

What substrate do you have in the tank with the long horn cow fish?

Best of luck,


Kelly


Edited: Yesterday @ 6:13 PM by Puffer Queen
Post #21920
Posted Yesterday @ 10:42 PM


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Hi, Kelly,

I got the wrasse from someone who was closing out her tank, and I am quarantining him now so that I can give him to someone else without passing onpossible ich. Or is that not necessary with a wrasse?

The substrate, apart from the live rock, is a shallow white gravel layer, perhaps an inch thick in spots.

The cowfish seems improved, and the eyespots are not as dense. One of the tangs has a new red raised spot on the anterior part of the dorsal fin.

Anne
Post #21967
Posted Today @ 7:14 AM




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Anne,

I applaud your effort/concern for helping your fish.

The wrasse absolutely has to be quarantined. Anything that is wet - rock, sand, inverts, corals, algae, fish, etc can carry parasites and bacteria.

The red spot on the tang could be a bacterial infection. You really should consider treating the tang in a separate quarantine tank with hyposalinity and an antibiotic - Maracyn 2, kanamycin or nitrofurazone.

Make sure you are monitoring your water parameters at least daily as fluctuations in pH or ammonia can cause redness. Hyposalinity in your display system can kill off the microfauna on the rock/substrate. Hyposalinity can affect your pH so you may need to add buffer in order to stabilize the pH and decrease stress on the fish.

The problem, which you have already experienced, is it is difficult and sometimes impossible to treat fish in the display system. The substrate and rock will absorb and leach medications. This not only destroys the nitrification capabilities but makes getting a therapeutic level to treat a fish impossible.

The recurring problem is the display system obviously has ich - you are/will betreating with hyposalinity for at least 8 weeks. There is an opportunistic bacteria in the system which when the fish are stressed (ich infestation and recent/past water condition issues) they become infected with the bacteria. You had treated last month with antibiotics in the main display system. While the fish improved, the bacteria is still present and may have developed a resistance to the antibiotic that you used since the rock & substrate didn't allow the antibiotic to achieve a level needed to wipe out the bacteria. You might consider removing the substrate and doing large (50 %) water changes every couple days for a week. Make sure you keep the salinity low. This will hopefully decrease the bacteria and parasite count.

I know you added a UV, in order to improve efficiency make sure the water entering the sterilizer is prefiltered and the flow rate is within the manufacturer's specifications/recommendations. The UV will not cure the problem, but it can help decrease the number of pathogens.

Beta glucan, garlic and vitamins are a must in this situation. These fish have been under ongoing stress for several weeks. Their immune systems are compromised and they need any and everything they can get to help them.

Best of luck,


Kelly



Kelly
Post #22002
Posted 1/22/2006 2:22:37 PM
 

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Hi Kelly.  In the "Ich" thread, you mention that temporary hiding places, such as PVC pipes, should be able to be sterilized after use.  If we remove the rock from the tank and let it dry, will the tangs' infective bacteria be destroyed or should the (formerly live) rock be boiled if it is ever to be used again for an aquarium?

Anne

Post #22519
Posted 1/22/2006 2:27:19 PM


 

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Anne,

Are you treating the display tank with antibiotics?

I know you are treating the display tank with hyposalinity so the ich should be gone from the tank in 8 weeks.


Kelly
Post #22520
Posted 1/22/2006 4:34:15 PM
 

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No, we're not doing anything at the moment except for maintaining the hyposalinity (1.008).  We're just trying to decide what to do next.  I would not consider treating the main tank again with antibiotics while the rock is in there (for reasons you have noted)--and treating that much water is an expensive proposition in any case.  Without the rock, the tangs could be caught, quarantined and treated.   The tangs look pretty awful today, and are fighting more than usual.  The tomato clown has new ich spots.
Post #22540
Posted 1/22/2006 4:56:18 PM


 

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Anne,

I agree - if you treat with antibiotics, it would be better in a separate tank & continue the hyposalinity.

As far as sterilizing the rock, I think the substrate (gravel) is more of a source of retaining bacteria than the rock.  I would leave the rock in the display tank.  Consider removing the substrate if you are worried about the bacteria.  I have experienced and have seen in other hobbyists' tanks reoccuring bacterial infections.  I cultured mine as well as a couple others and found some bad bacterial strains that lived/multiplied in the crushed coral substrate of Fish only systems.  When the substrate was removed (siphoned out, not scooped or netted out), the bacterial infections went away.  Just a thought/consideration.  Removing the gravel could also remove some of the ich cysts that are developing.

Just a reminder to monitor your pH closely (at least daily) while doing hyposalinity.  It can drop quickly.  Buffer additions may be needed.

If you have a plastic lighting screen/grate (bought mine at Home Depot).  You can divide your tank to keep fish from fighting.  Here is a terrible pic but you can get the idea.

Are you adding any supplements to the fishes' diet?

Keep us posted.  Best of luck.


Kelly


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Post #22549
Posted 1/27/2006 2:22:25 PM


 

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Anne,

Any updates on your tangs, clown or cow fish ?

Hope things are going better for you and your fish.


Kelly
Post #23664
Posted 2/10/2006 2:18:22 PM
 

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Thank you, Kelly, for your interest and help.  In spite of maintaining hyposalinity, I observed new ich spots on all the tangs, the cowfish and the clown (in other words, all the fish) and the tangs were showing signs of infection again.  I began to research euthanasia as I was becoming stressed out.  A paragraph on http://faq.thekrib.com caught my attention:  "It's come to this, has it?  You've read all the FAQs, found out everything you can about diseases, ailments and the proper treatments, asked for help from several knowledgeable sources and have come to the conclusion that you cannot nurse your fish back to health.  And since you took on the responsiblitiy of caring for the fish, you now must find the most humane method in helping it to die."  That was exactly how I felt.  So we ran CO2 from a compressed gas cylinder into the tank, the fish started to swim more and more slowly, and finally sank to the bottom.  It was a peaceful passing with no signs of distress on their parts.   We will be content with admiring other people's tanks, but won't be starting ours up again.

Anne

Post #25956
Posted 2/10/2006 2:36:02 PM


 

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Anne,

Sorry for your losses.


Kelly
Post #25960
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