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RO/DI... what to look for. Expand / Collapse
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Posted 1/12/2006 3:34:51 PM


 

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Last Login: 11/19/2009 1:09:50 PM
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I have a strong preference for DI only to not waste water. But if you have a use for the reject water (harder than the source tap water)... then it may be win win for you. Reject water can be used for watering some plants, fab for African cichlids, possibly laundry washing, etc.

Else you can replace the membrane chamber with a fav media (liek phosphate remover or another/finer micro prefilter) and fly DI only.

That all said.. many folks happily and successfully use RO combo units. I'm just a dedicated recycler and uber-conscientious consumer.

.

Anthony Calfo

Post #18669
Posted 1/12/2006 3:34:51 PM


 

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Last Login: 10/24/2006 11:59:59 AM
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Very interesting... i've not heard this advice before. Would you then have to replace your DI media much more often, and would that negate the cost cutting affects of not wasting the water? I guess obviously not if you're doing it. Can you explain a little more if there is in fact more to explain please?

 

 


"It's easy to just sit there and say you'd like to have more money. And I guess that's what I like about it. It's easy. Just sitting there, rocking back and forth, wanting that money."

Quote from the great, Jack Handey.

Post #18670
Posted 1/12/2006 3:34:51 PM
 

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Last Login: 12/29/2007 5:56:26 PM
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You'd have to replace the DI about 10-20 times as frequently or so, but bulk resin might make that reasonably cheap. DI also won't remove all the contaminants that RO-DI might, since the RO membrane sorts on size and can reject particles, bacteria, uncharged compounds, etc.

Jonathan Bertoni
Post #18671
Posted 1/12/2006 3:34:51 PM
 

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Last Login: 1/12/2006 3:09:53 PM
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I am using the Typhoon and it is working well. It is the 75GPD unit, which I would recommend to you.
Post #18672
Posted 1/12/2006 3:34:51 PM
 

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Last Login: 5/20/2006 9:21:31 PM
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I've read that muriatic acid will recharge the DI resin.

I think that's what the chemical is.

****************************************************
Post #18673
Posted 1/12/2006 3:34:51 PM


 

Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 8/24/2009 6:13:51 AM
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Hope I don't get yelled at for this... I've had several units in the past and have the following personal opinions:

1. No matter how many GPD you get, it's always too slow at filtering and having to wait leads to forgetting it's running... which leads to having wet floors and angry spouses... A small pressurized container is priceless! I have 3 of them in parallel now (2x3.3 gallons and a 5 gallon). There are plenty on sale on eBay if you can't find them elsewhere.

2. Regardless of brand, it's the media doing the filtering. So if the plastic shells carry a name you know or not, there is likely little difference between them. Complete $100 RO/DI units have performed just as well for me as $200-300 units. The only thing that I replace on the cheaper units is the DI filter once they run out, I replace it with a regular housing and refillable cartridge.

3. This may be an incorrect conclusion but I generally get lower TDS out of a 75GPD membrane than I do a 110 or higher rated one (prior to the DI filter obviously). Seeing the dimensions of these membranes are the same perhaps the extra GPD are acchieved by reducing the density/pore size of the filter?? Either way, having a storage tank means I choose the membrane that "seems" to give me the purest water, not too concerned about the slower rate.

4. I've never been concerned about measuring my waste water so I don't know how much is actually being wasted. However judging by my water bill I have no reason to be concerned about it. Of course I only use about 30 gallons of filtered water each week at home so I can't think I'm wasting more than 40-50 a week... I think my leaky toilet costs me more If I had larger tanks to maintain then I think I would want to start re-cycling the waste water, if not for economic reasons at least for ethical/environmental reasons.

I'd be very interested in knowing more about the possibility of recharging DI resin! If that's possible or if you have a cheap bulk supplier of resin then DI only could be interesting as the rate of filtration is probably very fast... Anthony, have you ever estimated how many gallons you get out of the DI filter alone before the resin needs replacing? I was always under the assumption that it would be insufficient to be cost effective, but I have never tried it myself.

Regards

Giancarlo Podio
Post #18674
Posted 1/12/2006 3:34:51 PM
 

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Last Login: 5/22/2006 12:41:00 PM
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I know quite a few people who bought their RO/DI off of ebay. i live in an apartment so I have little space for all of this. I was thinking of purchasing the 6stage 125GPD on ebay and it comes with a 4g container and a faucet for the sink.

1.) I was thinking (and advise would be well received) that I would mount it under my sink and split the output from the tank to the faucet and a ball valve that way I can use the faucet for cooking and drinking and the ball valve for getting water for my tank.

2.)Another possibility is to put the T after the membrane and run 1 end to the faucet for the cooking and then run the other through the DI into the tank and have the ball valve come off of the tank. I dont need as clean a water for myself and cooking, so why use the DI resin more than necessary. I also don't need as much for cooking and drinking so I could constantly have 4 gallons ready for me at a time for the tank.

3.)A final option is to mount the RODI and tank in the laundry room and run a line to the fish tank for auto top off. This may be the best for the tank but I might as well use the water for other purposes, which is why I lean more towards the first two options.
Post #18675
Posted 1/12/2006 3:34:51 PM


 

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Last Login: 8/24/2009 6:13:51 AM
Posts: 184, Visits: 609
I have mine setup like your second option. RO going to the sink and DI for the tank only. I've heard negative things about option 3, in particular the constant short on/off cycles that would occur each time the float switch activates tend to allow more impurities through the RO membrane.

My most recent purchase was a 110GPD from AquaSafe on eBay. Seems just as good as others I've used.

Giancarlo Podio
Post #18676
Posted 1/12/2006 8:37:43 PM


 

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Last Login: 10/24/2006 11:59:59 AM
Posts: 37, Visits: 82
I don't want to start my first tank behind the 8 ball so i'm going to invest in an RO/DI unit. What aspects should i specifically be looking for like some X number of GPD, or X number of chambers, or such and such micron size filters.... etc. I've heard good things about airwaterice.com's Typhoon III, but I'm going to be setting up a 37 gallon oceanic. Is this overkill? If you guys have any good info about RO/DI units or recommendations on a system to suit me and my 37 gallon money pit, please share.








I just wanted to be the first to post in this forum :naka: .... and to use this guy. :lol:

 

 


"It's easy to just sit there and say you'd like to have more money. And I guess that's what I like about it. It's easy. Just sitting there, rocking back and forth, wanting that money."

Quote from the great, Jack Handey.

Post #18668
Posted 1/13/2006 12:39:16 PM
 

Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/22/2006 12:41:00 PM
Posts: 17, Visits: 24
gpodio (1/12/2006)
I have mine setup like your second option. RO going to the sink and DI for the tank only. I've heard negative things about option 3, in particular the constant short on/off cycles that would occur each time the float switch activates tend to allow more impurities through the RO membrane.

My most recent purchase was a 110GPD from AquaSafe on eBay. Seems just as good as others I've used.

Does Home depot or anyone local sett more fittings for the tubing.  I am guessing I would need a T and a ball valve and some extra tubing. 

Post #20079
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