Marine Depot Forums / Lighting / Equipment Forums

Lumatek 250W Dimmable / Multi-Wattage Ballast

Six-line — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 13:12:05 GMT

Hi all,
I wanted to see what everyone thinks of these new ballast that are coming out and is there a list of bulbs that can be ran on them? I'm mostly interested in Radiums or Phonix bulbs right now but would like option. Thanks, oh yeah and when are they hitting the market?

mh lighting

steven1 — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 18:18:50 GMT

i have a 560w mh light over a 75g reef tank can anyone tell me how many inches the light should be over the tank

R2 48 inch LED moonlight

TheKuhli — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:52:27 GMT

For anyone at Marine Depot, do you all anticipate getting a hold of these and selling them online?

http://r2moonlights.com/r2-48-signature-series-p-5.html

I already have an R2 Moonlight Controller and a 48 inch blue LED fixture on one of my tanks and LOVE it! I want to buy another one for a separate tank an just prefer to buy all my gear here and don't want to mess with any other online retailer. Please let me know!

(edited link to manufactures site 11/17/09 argi)

Overdriving NO bulbs

steamer51 — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 18:05:52 GMT

I know if you wire two normal output ballasts together to overdrive you must use electronic ballasts because magnetic ballasts are not made the same way and will probably fry everything.

Can you use a 40 watt bulb with an unmodified 110 watt magnetic ballast? I know you can use Icecap and other electronic ballasts to overdrive 48" 40 watt T12 or 54 watt T5 with the same ballast for 110 watt VHO. What I need to know is if you can overdrive normal output bulbs with a VHO magnetic ballast. I have a used retrofit with a magnetic ballast made to run 3 72" 160 watt or 3 48" 110 watt VHO lamps and I would like to run 40 watt NO bulbs but I don't want any fires.

I buy a box of ten 48" 6500K 40 watt for about $30. 48" VHO are about $23 and 72" run $32 or more each so I am trying to run $3 bulbs. If I can't overdrive with this ballast I can use it to run VHO actinics since the 6500K are pretty yellow by themselves and I haven't found anything higher than 6500K at Home Depot etc. Thanks for the help.

Upgrading my 75 lighting

sltloser — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 17:48:22 GMT

Hey guys, i am currently running a fixture over my tank and i'm looking at upgrading to the lumenarc mini reflectors. Do you think that these will work for my 75 or will the spread be too much? I'm currently running an odessya 2x250MH Ushio (DE) 4x64CF (actinics) it's a knock off of the coralife pro fixture. I just don't think that the spread of the reflectors is very good and i'd like to upgrade to some better lighting. Thanks guys!

Lighting ?

corysreef — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 15:27:21 GMT

I have been looking at fixtures for a few days now, out of a hamilton reef star or icecap pendant 250 watt models which has the better reflector/ballast, im also looking to do this on the cheap, but not suffer from, You get what you pay for.....

Thanks, in advance

T5 replacements for 75g

RainerFeyer — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 06:29:04 GMT

Hi all,

I've been trying to read about best combinations of T5 lights, but, wow: information overload!

What would you all think of the following combo for 55W bulbs:

ATI Blue Plus
UV Actinic White 50/50
Fiji Purple
ATI Blue Plus

I don't see the KZ Fiji available here on MD, though.

Also, lamps on RG are labeled HO, were lamps here on MD are labeled VHO. Is the PAR different?

Thanks in advance,

Rainer

Help! "Glider" on wire suspension kit quit gripping wire!

c'est ma — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:09:58 GMT

I have a 4-bulb 24" Sun-Tek fixture suspended by a Sunlight Supply Wire Suspension Hanging Kit. It has worked well for many months, now, but tonight I had a problem. When I released the little cylinder on top of the "glider" (what the instructions call the part that the wire passes through and that allows you to move the fixture up & down), it would no longer grip the wire. So one side of my fixture is now resting on top of the tank. (Yes, it's turned off.)

Does anyone know if these are fixable? There does seem to still be some kind of spring action in the little cylinder when I depress and release it, but--no grip.

(I did search--got no hits at all!)

LED lightning

mori30 — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 19:17:49 GMT

Hello out there, i hope some one can help me with my little search

i got a 75gal tank, of course its 48"

now now i would like to have the option to put in it ANYTHING i want, right now i have a 20Gal with a 250W 14000k sunpod, i know ya would say over kill but i can say i can put anything in it with no worries.

now i think i will need like 500w and up for my 75gal BUT i was looking into this LED lighting stuff, but i cant find NONE, the few i have found are like 168W no where near as good.

so can anyone provide me with some solutions for it?
or opinions?

thanks in advance.

Compact fluorescent vs. T5 for stony corals

Doug G — Sat, 26 Sep 2009 21:47:40 GMT

I have compact fluorescents, but heard T5 can save a lot of money.

E.g., my two 96 watt bulbs are I believe about 60$ and have to be changed out every 6 months, vs. 4 36" T5s that last two years at 100$. Can save maybe 140$ in two years. Is that right? Especially about the relative change out times.

(thanks!)

Please help me light my 55 gal corner pentagon aquarium

martyp — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 12:10:22 GMT

I have a 55gal corner pentagon aquarium that I plan to house softies and some LPS corals. The dimensions of the aquarium are 24x 24 x25 I am debating between between a 150W MH system with 2 atinic light bulbs or a T5 system with 6 bulbs 18w each(half white and half blue). Please let me know if you think the T5 system will provide enough light to maintain the corals in my tank or if I should go with the more expensive MH system.

Thanks in advance,

Marty

Approve or Disapprove

Old Man Of The Sea — Tue, 22 Sep 2009 12:40:47 GMT

OK ladies and gentlemen, its time now to agree or not, thumbs up or down on this lighting spec for my to be SPS reef tank 8'x2'x2' with a DSB of 4" to 4.5"

The light quote is: for the metal halides - 3 250 watt (Screw in bulbs) (Retrofit reflectors with Reef Optix 1 ballasts. These reflectors allow the heat to dissapate. These lights will be spaced out to equally cover your aquarium, placed in the middle of the tank

For the T-5's: for the backround fill lights I recommend putting 6 48" atinic lights. Placing 4 lights on the front and 2 on the back. These will give you very good fill lights to complement the metal halides. The ballast ( 3 of them) are IceCap units. The end caps are waterproof and also by IceCap. I'm not sure who manufactures the reflectors are by, but they are highly polished units from I think IceCap. The bulbs I was thinking about are 48" 54watt atinic.

Buddy

led lighting

geoplane2 — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:20:55 GMT

hello i was looking for some info on led lighting for my fowlr . i only found a very little info on it

and was not very happy with it ! does anyone know where to find the info that is required to make a diy led lighting system? i know where to buy the parts but dont have the info on what parts to buy , like how many led,color,type of leds....ect I try to go to pfo lighting but could not pull up the web site ? i look at the product review in the aquarists magazine and it gave me a little info on the subject but not enough. Any input would be helpful !!!!

MH fixture recomendation for 24x24x24 acrylic quarter cylinder reef tank

ammo2rp — Sat, 12 Sep 2009 20:43:05 GMT

Does anyone have any MH suggestions for an acrylic 50 gal quarter cylinder reef tank that is 24x24x24? Quarter cylinders are a bit out of the standard size lighting. I was thinking maybe a pendant or a retrofit. The tank has a wooden canopy on top with an opening size of 18x18x24. I'm a little worried about the heat and acrylic so I'm leaning more towards a pendant. Any suggestions?

Help with metal halide upgrade

felixc395 — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 14:45:37 GMT

I've recently looked in to upgrading from power compacts to metal halide lighting so I can get sps coral. I have a 37 gallon aquarium that is 30'' long, about 18-19'' deep, and 12'' wide.

Any suggestions? Also what wattage would be neccesary? Any substitutes to metal halides that would work for me?

Next, Lets talk what my lighting specs should be

Old Man Of The Sea — Thu, 03 Sep 2009 01:38:41 GMT

The tank is 8'x2'x2' and the sump at this time is 48"x18"x17"

This tamk is to be dominated with SPS corals, with some clams.

Light set #1..................................................

4x250w MH.

Two Reefoptic 3 on Icecaps with 14K Phoenix.

Two Aquamedic pendants with 14k Phoenix.

8x54w T5 on Icecaps

4 total Blueplus

2 Aquable specials

2 6500

It went 2 Bluepluses in the front

Then the MHs

1x blue plus

1x6500

1x blue plus

1xAquablue

It drew about 1200 watts at the MH ballasts

And 800 or so watts for the T5s

So around 2000 watts total for 1600 watts of light.

========================================

Here is another lighting on another 240 gal reef tank that I found> Light set #2

Lighting - All main tank lighting is contained within the DIY aluminum light box that measures 8" tall X 15" deep X 8' long. Four Hamilton 250-watt Double Ended 14k Kelvin metal halide bulbs in four PFO mini-pendant fixtures and driven by four IceCap 250 electronic ballasts. Eight 46.5" super-actinic URI VHO bulbs on two circuits drive by two IceCap 660 electronic ballasts, one controlled by a Niche Engineering 500 Dimmer to simulate dawn/dusk. Three 25-watt incandescent blue "party" lights as moonlights. One each 150-watt Iwasaki 6500 Kelvin metal halide bulb on both the sump/refugium and grow-out tank, both driven by IceCap 150 electronic ballasts.

======================================================

I can not honestly say I know everything im looking at here, after all, I did say that im no expert when it comes to lighting, all I know is that I need to get the best lighting possible I could afford.

Keith, you will see here that I not changed or moved away from that lighting specs (Light set #1) except that I wanted to be able to change a little of something on the #1 pick to have much more blue at cool down, prior to the lights shutting down. I like to get the exact and best of the line ballasts, and would you suggest if I shouldn`t look to buy used on this equipment item..

Being I decided to get a all new tank stand with canopy, im also wondering that if I should do the same in getting the exact type of all glass custom build sump!? It would the once again become more of a reality of the possibly dream SPS reef system. I was thinking around the parameters of 60"x20"x20" which would make the sump around 103 gallons. But on the skimmer side, the water linge I think will be around 8-10" somewhere. I need to go to the link of the manufacture of the skimmer o get more detailed facts on what is the best water line level for the MR4 skimmer.

I will go to Lowes to replace all new tubing lines. I much to talk about with my new aquarium person being that things are changing in staying parts of the tank itself hen it was setup by another, the only thing I would then be keeping of the 240 setup, is only the tank itself, that is if I go head with the new thought to get a all glass custom build sump. I will have to check on what the cost will be with James.

A matter fact, I think I will send James a email of questions a long the lines of doing just that, what extra cost would I be looking at, for im also looking to run me a refugium.

The idea on the above lighting is to get a full complete specs to the lighting I would have, again I need to remind you all that im no idea what im looking at here, other then I would like to have the best possible lighting i could afford to run.

If it be a good idea that if much of the parts become available due to others selling their equipment, I would require links for the complete indentification of each piece of equipment, and please do suggest that if it will be far better to buy simply new. Thanks for your assistance in this matter.

Buddy

One last attempt to see if I could get any type of assistance at marinedepot

Old Man Of The Sea — Sun, 30 Aug 2009 23:49:43 GMT

I post this in lighting, for I need to still know in what im to look for or even try to buy those who might be selling that item in the forums, im also telling you what has been happening and what further decisions I made to see this tank happening in the coming months.

Hi again, the last two times or so I gotten little to no responses depending on what was the question in the first place. Now I know that I been asking on a number of certain questions from lighting to pumps. The last question I solved that myself by collecting a number of particular threads in which speaks of a large tank from beginning to end. Some might have seen, the person who will rebuild my tank, had suggested his opinion to have two pumps for my main return. between both of those pumps, they would giving me a flow rate somewhere less then 1800 gph. I told him that I wanted better and that being no one would bother to assist me any further at that time, I selected the main return pump myself. I selected the sequense dart 3600 pump, and it will I believe from James (my new aquarium guy) that the return will split into two returns.

Sequence ReeFlo Dart Pump, 3600 GPH

Now I been busy the last two weeks on this, and looking for certain used equipment so that I might save to do something else as well. What I mean by that is, im buying a new stand and canopy, as of right now im a price quote for a tank stand of 36" tall under the tank. Now im waiting for my second quote, to see what difference the cost will be to have 38" tall stand. For once this tank does start, that will be it, I wont be able to do anything further due to having a tank stand of only 24" tall, for equipment it becomes a huge problem.

Now I already paid for these items, a 1/2 HP chiller, calcium reactor and a Co2 tank with Regulator, and a skimmer with pump and a waste container. Now I will be able to do little more to buy as much in cost as I done here, for were coming to the time when I need to have together before X-Mas, the property tax and that going we over $1500 this year. If I not buy the new stand and canopy, I believe that I might had started up this tank before the end of the year.

Another thing is, I lost both selection list for my 240 gal SPS tank, the cleaning crew and fish that I would mostly have, or was planning to have. Im hoping when the time comes that those who giving me their assistance on both types of crew selection, that you will assist me with it once more. After all, if I can show all the patience in world waiting to when I will finally do this tank (Six long years) that you could show me some patience as well for the bottom line here, the main fact of it is that I never in all my years while doing the hobby owned a SPS system, so there has to be questions I will ask of.

All the equipment items mentioned in this thread are listed as follows:

Pacific Coast Imports C0500 ½hp Chiller

My Reef Creations dual Chamber Calcium Reactor

Regulator

Co2 Canister

MRC MR4 Skimmer

Blueline external pump (1750 gph)

Waste container

There still be a number of items to get, as well as in the lighting set up. The problem be is, the last time I was asking something on this, and I knew that I wasn't happy with the lights selection which James (his the man who will rebuild my tank) suggested, in my last post or three in question has gotten zero opinions. The thing you need to know as well as that I never maintained a SPS reef tank, but I did other corals with no problems, im no lighting expert..

Also, for the calcium and phosphate reactors, im looking for the best high quality media for these equipment and bulk size., so cost will be somewhere high.

This is one lighting setup i became glued too, but it just needs more blue at cooling down period before shutting down>

========================================

4x250w MH.

Two Reefoptic 3 on Icecaps with 14K Phoenix.

Two Aquamedic pendants with 14k Phoenix.

8x54w T5 on Icecaps

4 total Blueplus

2 Aquable specials

2 6500

It went 2 Bluepluses in the front

Then the MHs

1x blue plus

1x6500

1x blue plus

1xAquablue

It drew about 1200 watts at the MH ballasts

And 800 or so watts for the T5s

So around 2000 watts total for 1600 watts of light.

===================================

here is another lighting on another 240 gal reef tank that I found>

=================================================

I can not honestly say I know everything im looking at here, after all, I did say that im no expert when it comes to lighting, all I know is that I need to get the best lighting possible that wont as well eat up my wallet/savings. I figure a $100 a month extra electric bill, I could deal with that.

Im also looking to run me a refugium, the tank sump will remain as the 4' L tank that was put on the 240 from the beginning, a 75 gal tank, I figure I already once paid for a custom glass sump.

Now the reason for talking about what possible lighting I could have, I want to get some better idea to what ballast to look for if and when its become available on sale in the selling forum. As well about the ballasts, I want to get the top of the line. Now as I said, I am not sure to what more I could spend on this before the end of the years. But if buying used and in great condition, it would take a load of my mind.

The new stand at this time to be, stands 36" tall for $875 and the canopy for $540 is a good price I told James, now before any decision is made, im waiting for a quote on the tank stand to be 38" tall.

So with all that is said here, will I once again be able to count on the very same people who giving me some type of assistance? After all, this is a forum were people do two type of things, one is they show to all their own tanks and be heavily praised for it, the other thing be is what the forums are all about, to assist others to the best of their knowledge.

If its to be that I will get no assistance what-so-ever because of the long wait in when this tank will really and truly be started up, and become a reality other then just a dream. The use equipment as you seen listed in this thread has cost me $1,395 and the 36" tall stand with canopy is priced at $1,415 before tax.

There is still the phosphate reactor to pick out, and the lighting, also cooling fans. But I seen once this type of cooling fans, i not been able to relocate again, its attaches to the top back of the reef tank, on one unit it has four fans blowing across the water of the tank. Even that I will have a chiller, I rather not leave it all up to the chiller in what my tank temperature will be, I will have fans in place.

Please believe and trust me that I am very serious in when I will get this SPS tank started up, I like those who had giving some suggestions before to when that (same) question comes up, please talk to me. I can not just listen to one man, who is setting up this tank. I didn't care for his lighting suggestion/opinion or his main return pumps flow rate would been. I did solve the flow rate on my own account, but lighting again becomes another matter for me, I know nothing of other then that I know I need the best possible lighting.

In this post, I posted two possible sets of lights to use., The big problem if going with T5 with MH, just how many T5 I should go with, and which type? If a settlement could be reached, and I the ballasts (links) that I should best have, I could then list my request in the selling forum that im looking for these, but not too old I should think.

Again, the tank is to be dominated by SPS corals, with about three clams. And I told James that I wanted a closed loop system, he seems to think its not needed.or not worth it.

I hope you all will agree that im not looking to waste anyones time, that I will be able to count on those who has the knowledge to assist me, this tank will happen, with or without your help. Without your help will only make the progress somewhat slower. I hope that I could count on those once again.

Buddy

Lighting for a 90g Bow front

dgwyn — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 19:28:53 GMT

I just replaced the substrate and rock with new live sand and live rock in my Oceanic 90g bowfront tank. This is a setup that I inherited from someone, so I'm learning the ropes the hard way, so to speak. The lighting I have now is the original 40watt standard flourescent. I would like to get the coraline growing on the live rock, and start to add corals, so I know i need to upgrade the lighting.

The problem is that given tha it's a bow front style, I have 12" on the sides and 18" in the middle of the bow. That excludes many of the units I've researched. I would also like to avoid adding any more noise from the tank, as it's in the kitchen and already bothersome to the family, so big noisy fans would be a problem.

I would ideally like to have moon lights as well, to enjoy the tank in that mode too. The tank has a plastice cap on it that looks decent enough to keep on it if I can, so that adds a bit more of a challenge.

So, to summarize, I'd love to have a MH and T5 combo unit with a handful of lunar LEDs all in a package that's 12" wide or less (with no fans, of course). I realize I'm dreaming, so can anyone offer some rational and sane advice that could work please?

New guy to lighting, question about UV protection

capty99 — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 22:49:28 GMT

I just bought this guy

a double ended MH.

What I did was took it and dropped it into a halogen floodlight from home depot, (which I will use as a pendulum lamp over my tank).

I am wondering about the UV protection because on the page, it says double ended bulbs do NOT include any, but then that in the shipping some sort of protection will be included. All that was in the box was the bulb so I think I am misunderstanding something here.

so a) do i have to have a piece of glass over the bulb? b) is my floodlight glass from my halogen floodlight sufficient uv protection? c) what kind of danger is it to the eyes -- seconds, minutes, years before it could be a problem?

thanks guys appreciate it.

need help trouble-shooting 48" Current USA Nova Extreme T5 Freshwater Fixture

shireen — Sun, 12 Jul 2009 18:19:46 GMT

i've had a 48" Current USA Nova Extreme T5 HO 10K/Freshwater Fixture on my 40g tank that hasn't been working right since i bought it in March '09.

Only one bulb would light up when the timer came on each morning. In order to get the second bulb on, I had to remove the splash guard, jiggle and roll the bulb around its end caps before it would come back on again. Sometimes when I turned the fixture over to put it back over the aquarium, the bulb would go out and i'd have to play with it a bit more to coax it on. This exercise gets pretty tiresome every morning, so i've been operating with one bulb.

Since I don't have much time on my hands and didn't want to mess around inside the fixture, I asked for a replacement; finally had time to set that up today, and after 5 minutes on, the bulbs went off. The bulbs and reflectors seemed unusually hot so i waited a few minutes for it to cool off. When i turned it back on again, one of the bulbs flashed. That happened two more times. This one's probably due to a bad ballast(s). Another lemon!

Instead of asking Marine Depot to send me a third fixture, I would like to try to fix the first fixture. Since I've never done this before, I have a few questions.

In the old fixture, why does the one bulb not come on every morning? I've not changed anything from the previous day when i finally got it to light up.

Nothing's wrong with the bulbs, i've tested them.

I opened up the fixture and checked the following:

Connections between end caps, ballasts, and switch seem to be ok. (The switch connection plugs are a bit loose, but i don't think it's the cause problem.)

Slightly adjusted one of the metal plates holding the end caps to make sure the bulbs were seated as snugly as possible. But that did not solve the problem

The next thing i wanted to do was swap connections between the ballasts and end caps, to see if i could figure out which component was causing the problems. Unfortunately, i have no idea how to disconnect those wires and re-connect them. Could someone please tell me how to do it?

If it's a faulty end cap, i'll take one out of the second fixture and install it in the first fixture.

If it's a bad ballast, i'll ask Marine Depot or Current for a new ballast.

Any advice, especially on how to safely remove and reconnect wiring from the ballasts and end caps would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
shireen

lighting

cmc1066 — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 16:10:56 GMT

I have 2 questions . first has anybody know about uvl new t10 twist bulbs and second was reading about led lighting. was wondering about the blue spectrum I have blue led that are 460 nm and uvl are 420 nm was thinking of trying them out.does anybody have any knowledge on led . thank you chris

T5/HO Bulbs and Metal Halides

Joematota — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 09:40:42 GMT

Hi,

I currently own a Current-Usa Outer Orbit 150W MH and T5HO power compact fixture.
I'm on the process on replacing the T5 and MH bulbs.One time I heard a person talking about ballast and bulbs that you cannot put any bulb into a non-specific ballast.Is this true?For example,Do i have to buy the same bulbs Current-Usa sells or can I buy anything else without comprimising bulb life,etc?

Help choosing MH bulb

MPG — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 08:32:51 GMT

what's the differences between BLV and Ushio bulb?
are they the same brand actually?

fixture problem: bulb, ballast, wiring?

tranr — Sat, 25 Apr 2009 22:45:18 GMT

Hi everyone,
I have a relatively new (< 1 year manufacture date) Coralife aqualight fixture with two 65W 6700k compact fluorescent bulbs. The bulbs are also not that old from my understanding (I got them from an acquaintance who only used them for a month or so with the fixture).

I experienced the following problems:

-earlier this week, one of the two bulbs died, but the other one was still good
-when I moved the good bulb to the opposite side where the bad one was, nothing would light up
-after I replaced both bulbs to their original positions, there was still no light (the good bulb would no longer light up)

I would like to know if this is a problem with the ballast in my light fixture, and if you have any recommendations for either trouble-shooting the problem or finding a replacement ballast (if that is what I need). I don't think it's simply a bulb problem since the "good" bulb has now also gone bad from my attempt to adjust where the lighting went in my aquarium. Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

cooling fans

geoplane2 — Wed, 03 Jun 2009 14:15:02 GMT

hello , I have a question on the placement of a new cooling fan ? I am light on space so i can not put them on the ends ,I was woundering if i put the on top and use then to exhaust the heat for a 250w metal halide and 4 -t5- 39w the fans are 5" this is for a canapy ?

thanks

MOON LIGHT

PPRICE20 — Wed, 03 Jun 2009 10:03:31 GMT

I recently purchased two current nocturnal moonlights. I placed them in my canopy aprrox. 24" apart. This morning I noticed one of my fish were stressed out. Does the nocturnal moonlight create stress amongst the fish? If so, what is the best way to correct this? I bought these lights hoping to create a natural light cycle. Thanks

Which 96 Watt Power Compact Bulbs?

Doug G — Wed, 27 May 2009 22:02:51 GMT

I have a Coralife fixture that takes two 96 watt power compact fluorescent bulbs over a standard 46 gallon bow front tank. It has in it right now a 6700 K and a 10,000 K bulb. The corals look a little too pink and brown all over, could use a change of the 6700K to a fluorescing blue actinic bulb to bring out the greens, especially on the Favites... etc. BUT, I am thinking the actinic does not put out enough light for coral growth. Having trouble figuring out how to figure that out! Just going by watts per gallon is apparently not enough information. Perhaps change the 6700K to a 50:50 10,000K and actinic bulb would be a good compromise?

Which is the most effective flourescent tubes ever tried by members here?

melinda_fish — Tue, 26 May 2009 23:52:13 GMT

It's time to change the 3 fluorescent tubes again. Currently using Philips TLD 86 next to a large sliding opaque glass door.

My tank has a mix of various caulerpas, living rocks, blue tangs, corals, clowns, small blueblack trigger (very peaceful), etc

Any recommendations?

Rewiring Icecap T5 prewired Retrofit

reneecurry — Thu, 21 May 2009 23:38:15 GMT

I just received two 4-bulb prewired T5 retrofit kit and realized that I needed to rewire to allow me to intermix actinic and 10K bulbs. Is there a way to remove the wire from the T5 endcap to allow me to rewire?

Would anyone be interested in?

mikey9821 — Wed, 13 May 2009 08:17:36 GMT

I am building a light timer that uses digital timers that can compensate for daylight savings time, keep time if the power goes out, and even track sunrise and sunset.

Currently my design is an aluminum box that houses two timers, and one standard electrical outlet. Each set of lights can be plugged into the outlet and controlled separately by each timer. The timer package then has a cord that can plug into any outlet.

I am using the Current-USA Nova Extreme T5 lights and have the 460nm actinics one one timer and the 10,000K daylight on the other. The actinics come on one hour before the 10k then both the 10k and the actinics run for 10 hours. Then the 10ks shut off and the actinics run for another hour then shut off.

What was frustrating me was that the dial timers were inconsistent and inaccurate. Plus when the time changed or if the power went out I had to manually reset everything.

My question is, do you think there is a market for such a timer package? if so, what would you be willing to pay for it?

Best MH refelctor?

sltloser — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 12:27:08 GMT

Hey guys, i'm setting up a 180 gallon reef tank and i'm wondering what you guys think the best reflectors are. I'm looking at doing 3-250w halides. The big hype right now seems to be the Lumenarcs vs. Lumenbrights. Has anyone had any experience with either of these? i've read the forum on reefcentral.com but they seem to just argue rather than work towards a solution lol. Any ideas of other reflectors to would be very appriciated. I'm just looking to see what will give the corals the best light spread throughout the tank. The tank will have a mix of corals SPS, LPS, Zoo, leathers, etc.

-Thanks again guys

Problem with retrofit

K.Truong — Wed, 08 Apr 2009 22:26:59 GMT

Hello,

I just bought a 6ft Captive Sun MH & VHO retrofit that I am having problems with. The power cords for each set of lights are on timers plugged into different outlets. The actinic VHOs are set on a 12 hour cycle (9 AM to 9 PM) and the MHs are on a 6 hour cycle (Noon to 6 PM). Everything fires up properly and the unit functions fine for a few hours. The problem I am having is that the VHOs are shutting off an hour or two before the MHs are set to turn off. They usually come back on within an hour after the MHs shut off, but my tank is dark in the meantime. I thought I had a faulty ballast so I had a replacement shipped out to me, but still having the same issue. As I said, the power cords for each set of lights are plugged into different outlets so I am at a loss as to what could be causing this. Any insights or thoughts would be appreciated.

HELP

Hank — Fri, 03 Apr 2009 17:48:16 GMT

I just got a couple of Current Sundial pendants, but I don't have a clue how to hang them. Can anyone help?

changing from vho to t5

cmc1066 — Sat, 21 Mar 2009 18:52:57 GMT

i have a 125 and its time to start changing the bulbs.I have been thinking of switching to t 5. I have 2 250 20k hqi and 3 actincs and 1 25-75 vhos . Was thinking of the par rating with the t 5 would I have to add more bulbs I know I would have to use 3 foot bulbs.Also would the t5 use less electric I do know that they run about the same temp . thank you

ICE CAP 250Watts with Metal Bulb of 150Watts...

Masterfede — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 13:07:32 GMT

Hi I bougth an ICE CAP 250Watts Electronic Metal Hilde/HQI Balast: http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~category~IceCap_250_Watt_Electronic_Metal_Halide__HQI_Ballast_Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies_Lighting_Accessories_Ballasts_Metal_Halide_250_Watt_Electronic_Ballasts~vendor~IceCap~SearchStr~electronic+ballast~action~view~idProduct~IC3161~idCategory~FILTACBAMHTFEB.html

And I also have a Metal Halide Lamp (USHIO) 14000K doble ended UHI-150AQ...(150Watts)

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~category~14000K_Metal_Halide_Bulb___Ushio__Double_Ended_70_Watts~vendor~Ushio~SearchStr~14000k~action~view~idProduct~MB1267~idCategory~FILTBUMHDESW.html

My question is if can I put together the ICE CAP 250 Watts with teh Bulb of 150Watts?

PLEASE HELP!!!

Tks

metal halides Bio cube

taenhago — Sun, 11 Jan 2009 07:20:48 GMT

Hello

I have a 29-gallon biocube with fluorescent lighting; I would like to change out one set to metal halides, is this possible? If so How? Do I have to get an entirely different hood? Or can I get the metal lights and just “plug and play?

Does anyone know where I can get a new plastic shield (I don’t know what else to call it. It is inside the cover, large and shields the lights from moisture.

55 gallon

coastie02 — Sun, 08 Mar 2009 15:51:00 GMT

Sorry new to this all. I had a 12 gallon Eclipse for 3 years and now wanting to actually do something. I got a 55 gallon tank. I now have filter, heater, and powerhead. I now am looking at getting the lighting. I am not going to do anything crazy with this tank, but do not want to be limited like I was in my 12 gallon. I will eventually try to do some corals, but not a massive amount. I am looking at the Current USA Nova extreme T5. It is two bulbs 55 watts each. Is this going to be enough? I have seen that you are suppose to have 4 watts per gallon, but is this for bigger corals or just an average to go by? I have seen that Nova puts out a 55 x 4, but is just too much for me to spend in one purchase. Can I put another of the 55 x 2 on top of the tank if needed down the road? That seems to be the only difference between the two Nova. Also is Nova a good brand? Any input on this will be helpful, thanks. Also from reading some of the other post I know this will be asked and I do not have a canopy on top.

Light upgrade

TimOHMD — Fri, 06 Mar 2009 06:53:10 GMT

I currently am still using the lighting that came with new tank setup which is an eclipse natural daylight f18t8 24".

making an assumption this needs upgraded if I continue down the reef path? If so, next logical "cost conscience" step?

In tank currently: 56 gal, 35lb LR, 20lb LS with blue leg hermits, astrea snails, choc chip starfish, 1 yellow tail damsel and 2 false clowns. Tank a month old, all doing well....

I would eventually like to go with corals, but wife mad already with $$ spent on tank

so next step that I would probably stay at for awhile would be addition of an anemone for clowns.

thanks all!

18" T-5 BULBS

xlayedoutx — Mon, 02 Mar 2009 14:51:52 GMT

Any idea when replacement bulbs will be available for the 20" Nova pro t-5 system?

Keith, a lighting question on what you believe is best to have

Old Man Of The Sea — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 12:16:38 GMT

Time has proven that many SPS tanks can be run on T5 HO lamps and the Icecap ballast offers even better PAR and control of the lamps.

It was suggested to me by Mr.Firemouth that If I not as yet have the MH, That I should scrap the idea and go strictly with T5 HO with Icecap ballast.

So please comment any thoughts in this area to have lighting well, or best enough for a SPS system, the tank is 240 gals. So if you not agree with this idea, then please do list what you would suggest?

Thanking you in advance

Buddy